Showing posts with label Backpacking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Backpacking. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Afternoon and Evening

"How's your wife?" she asks.  "Doin’ poorly, we have some more tests next week."  They bow their heads.  A man orders a glass of wine.  I order a beer, she indicates a glass, and I nod.  They begin discussing football matches and the windy weather, why the bartender is working on her day-off – she explains she's covering for someone.  A man nudges me, gestures to my adjacent stool, his long gray beard brushes against me as he sits.  There are other seats in the bar, but he wants to be where the conversations are to be had.  The conversation shifts to politics.  An old woman three stools down sets down her drink and chimes in aggressively.  They go back and forth.  A man slams his fist, punctuating his point. The bartender sets out peanuts, things subside. She orders another pilsner.  I attempt ordering a wheat beer, it comes with a lemon and a strange plastic stick with a star shaped base.  The man next to me says it’s for pressing the lemon on the bottom of the glass.  "If you wish. It is your choice."  He attempts to discuss the weather with me – proof of our likeness as people.  The bar boy walks in, whistling.  Everyone looks down into their drinks.  The heavier man on the other side of the gray beard orders another wine, his lips smack together between sips.  Two men come in and play billiards (not pool).  This is proper billiards with three balls and no pockets.  The cook sings loudly in an Italian melody of ♪la da da dee da♪.  I try ordering a darker beer. She asks; "You want cold, or not so cold?"  I request not so cold.  She pulls a bottle from a wine rack type shelf.  I pour my Westmalle Trappits Dubbel into a goblet of a glass.  "When it’s too cold you can't taste it." she says.  I can taste it. Two English couples walk-in. I can understand what they're saying.  It displeases the imagination.  I order a glass of Three Roses Bourbon, my way of finding an old friend in a far off land.  I depart from my Dutch friends.  I leer at the English.

Dissonant resonates throughout the end of their third song.  A small room, with a handful of Tuesday evening music lovers, we applaud their performance in the lonely room.  His afro-Cuban beats, on a box drum called a Cajon, pulse the life blood through musical arteries.  The trio is disappointed to learn they will not be paid.  Having set up already, they play a set.  We congregate in the narrow room and drink rich Belgium ale.  The bartender speaks of having been to the village where the beer is brewed.  I commiserate with the drummer on the poor state of financial support for musicians in Amsterdam.  We had met two days before when his bike was upside down, the back wheel seized by a bungie-cord spun tight around the tire and fender.  I stopped and offer him my pocket knife.  Once freed, he mentions the need to get to rehearsal.  He invites me to his next show.  Sometimes it’s good being the go-to-guy.  He plays a Latin beat on a cow bell that is attached to a base-drum like kick pedal.  Sitting on his Cajon, his beats drive his self-composed music for the trio.  They jam, similar to a shitty Humboldt jam band, but in a way that isn't repulsive.  They are each professionally trained musicians, weaving expertly through complicated chord progressions and time signature changes.  I hearken back to years of education in music theory and chord structure.  They pour salt into my wounded heart, broken from my loss of muscle memory needed to play with such virtuosity; I could not stand on stage with these gentlemen. I order a glass of Irish whiskey and drink it down.  They continue with their syncopate rhythms. It’s erotic. The night is maturing like a fine wine, subtlety changing in its complexities, adding flavor through the additional bodies filling the small space.  I order another Belgian ale.  The cow bell rings out from his foot pedal.

Monday, May 23, 2011

I fucking hope not.

“So it’s a journal?” “I fucking hope not. I view it more as a guide to a minimalist way of living.” The three of us had been discussing what we do; he'd just finished his studies in Germany, she works as a language teacher. How do I express the desire to write down the debauchery that my life has succumbed to? I tell them of forestry, of making over 50 dollars an hour, of walking around with my dogs and being paid. Then I tell them of reading literature and the desiring to read, drink, and occasionally write. The subject tending to be myself and fucked encounters. I have a good living as a forester; I have no intention of being a writer – I will fail – you will fail – everyone will fail. Never attempt to succeed, only try to survive. I bought a bottle of wine, remembered my lack of a corkscrew, and pushed the cork in with my toothbrush. I opened it in a dead-end ally in Dublin on my last night in town. The ally was littered with needles and clothes were strewn about. I picked up a hoodie and used it to obscure the bottle as I walked down the road. When I reached the park and took a pull off the wine, I smelled the sweater was coated in piss.


There is nothing wrong with sobriety in moderation.
John Ciardi



Drinking through a hangover I find myself with a pint of porter in the men's room stall taking a worthy beer shit (attempting to write about the event between squeezes). The hardest part of traveling in cities is finding quality dive bars. If I hear California Gurls or Everyday I'm Hustling one more time, I’ll puke on the dance floor. I stand after my shit, turn to shake the dribble off my dick, and watch a drop land in my pint on the floor. I laugh.

Friday, May 20, 2011

Traveling Light

Staying at a Hostel in Westport Ireland, I met a man from Calgary.  He commented that I was traveling light.  I did my normal spiel on Fanny Trekking and he said he'd never heard of it.  I told him I researched extensively before starting out and found nothing on the subject.  So I’m, in fact, the first Fanny Trekker on earth.  And having made it through a week and a half Fanny Trek before, I hold myself as the foremost authority on the matter.

My position is still very strong.  I’m on my third pair of socks and second pair of insoles for my boots.  I find that thin socks keep my feet from sweating (or stinking).   I ditched my underwear a few days ago – I’ll try to grab a new pair soon – for now I’m commando.  I haven’t managed a Laundromat yet, but have ironically been showering regularly.  Ironic because I detest showering; I’ve been showering far more often than I do in normal life. One of the women I stayed with in an apartment in Liverpool, insisted on washing my shit.  I obliged.  My legs remain strong, but I’m developing runner’s knee – a pain behind the knee from extensive use. I thought of seeking treatment, but opted to take the best advice a coach can give his players...walk it off.  I walked approximately 15 kilometers yesterday, through the countryside of Wicklow County.  

Another critically important aspect of Fanny Trekking is eliminating weight.  When I was in New York last year, I got off the bus and immediately started viewing the city.  It was all around me, huge. Skyscrapers ripping through the air, tickling heights reserved for mountains alone, their towers of babel protruding from a sea of languages.  I had no intention in those moments to have my eyes shut-out within the confines of a walled-off room while doing the requisite baggage storage of a traveller.  I lived that moment, then and there.  On that trip I was traveling with a backpack, unfortunately.  I needed to carry extra clothes for a wedding.  I made it well enough, bumping into people, bouncing off walls, awkwardly slamming about while standing atop the empire state building.  What hell a backpack is.  Inevitably my travelling partner had enough herself and I was amiable to trek-off to the isolation of a room.  We went out later but didn’t manage to cover much ground due to exhaustion of our morning with pack.  If only we had brought fanny packs...

Bowie to Bowie

A man gets thrown against a wall and onto the sidewalk by two unarmed policemen.  Police in much of Europe do not carry guns or Tasers, they just knock the shit out of you old school.  I cross the street and snap a photo while moving down to the next bar with some college students that just finished their exams.  It’s an unfortunately slow night throughout Dublin.  The bar we go to is named Coppers, and most of the patrons are either nurses or cops.  The cops are all working overtime for the Queen’s visit.  I leave the fellas at the next bar and try to find my way back to the Pub where I left my hoodie; I'm not quite resigned to giving it up yet.  I find a wool blanket on the street and pick it up; fate.  Why not just sleep in the street?  The city is on lockdown anyway and most Hostels are filled-up.  I find my hoodie then stop for a beer on the sidewalk with a group of homeless men.  We discuss homelessness, sleeping outside and fear of the police.  One gets a phone call.  There's a huge protest across town where the Queen had laid a wreath earlier.  I hoof-it at lightning speed; the thrill of a righteous protest is exhilarating.  I approach the park.  Distant sirens are heard.  I see a few uniformed officers, but my search for youth on the streets is in vain.  The phone call is likely a prank, or misinformed, no one is there.  The days of protests occurred before I reached Dublin by train.  Others are likely to occur, but no one can ever get within a mile of the Queen.  I take my blanket and find a bush; my luck is good, it doesn't rain.

They're spending millions on the cost of the Queen’s visit.  Bombs have been found on busses.  There are constantly helicopters hovering over the city.  It’s all a show of intimidation.  The police are everywhere, blocking alleyways and standing on street corners.  I've seen female officers in pants 4-sizes too large.  Perhaps they're cadets!  Every manhole cover and utility hatch in the sidewalk has been welded shut to prevent the placement of bombs.  At least the cost of the Queens visit is less than the royal wedding.

I've found a few very Portlandia bars in Dublin.  They serve their own house lager and have an extensive organic menu during the day, with many vegetarian options.  At night they have live music on three floors.  One of the bands is a two piece group, one on guitar, the other on drums.  The drummer has braces.  They play all original songs in a Bowie fashion.  Their music is loud.  Actually, many of their songs are about David Bowie.  They dress like the clash and together can't weigh more than 220 lbs.  At the end of their set, the singer strikes the symbols with his guitar, distorts his amplifier, and drops his instrument onto the stage floor.

Saturday, May 14, 2011

I wanted you right when I saw your Bum Bag.

I had subtle plans to meet an Irish lass while traveling.  I didn't think it would happen in Liverpool, but when they're on holiday too...  

It was actually due to the charging situation with my Tablet.  I was left stranded not being able to search for things, or find where I was going as easily as before.  It also left me without a time piece for the first time in years.  I've always wanted to go without a Babylometer, but with cell phones, they're always at hand.  I found myself in Liverpool walking the streets looking for a Hostel, I bought some beer and drank it in some roadside bushes while changing my socks and putting new insoles in my boots.  Carlsburg Strong Ale, 9% gravity, it's basically European malt liquor.  I had finished a couple of cans and was heading back in the direction of where I thought I saw a Hostel on the map that morning when I came upon a karaoke bar.  The rest, let's say, didn't involve me finding a Hostel for the night, and I learned that Bum Bags are attractive to some women (they call them Bum Bags because a Fanny is on the other side in England).

I awoke still drunk, in the city of the Beatles, searching for something.  Normally, it's not known to me what I'm walking toward, and then I'm shown why.  I found what is called English breakfast; basically, it's a fried egg, sautéed mushrooms, baked beans, potatoes, blood pudding, British banger sausages, a steamed tomato, thin sliced ham, heavily buttered toast, and black coffee.  Later, I was told in the UK this is exactly what people eat when they're hung over; it's also what the English eat every day.  I learned this from an individual in Holyhead who was Welsh.  I traveled there by train that evening to catch a ferry to Dublin.  It's a small town on the coast surrounded by farms.  I had 6 hours to kill before the ferry left at 2:30 in the morning for a red eye.  I just started walking and eventually found a beach that looked exactly like Caspar in Mendocino.  I walked back to town in the dark and found a Pub.  The drinking age here is 18, and I'm still not quite used to it.  I ended up in a Pub where almost everyone was 18, and just getting out of Secondary School.  In school in Wales you have to learn the Welsh language, and in Pubs in Wales, they all want to teach it to you.  It sounds a lot like German, but less aggressive. 

I'll try to keep posting as I go along.  I actually resolved the credit card issues and charging situation on my Tablet today, so you should be seeing more from me.  I've been writing volumes in a notebook, and what I've written here actually doesn't do it justice.  You can pick up a copy of my other writings after they're published.

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Some thoughts from my first day in Europe

Well obviously, everything about Fanny Trekking is panning out as I've described.  I managed to carry exactly what I needed today, do it for a full day, and never be burdened.  I finally checked into a Hostel for £22, (about $30) and didn't need to worry about locking anything up because I kept it on my person.  I got hungry part way through the day so I bought a baguette and a 4-pack of tall cans of some shitty British lager beer.  It wasn't good at all despite the can advertising "Probably The Best Lager In The World..."  Well Carlsberg, you're not.  Not even close.  It's even worse warm, which I'm stomaching at the moment in the Hostel 24-hr Internet cafe.  I normally love warm beer; be it Pabst, Hamms, Oly, or any cheap pilsner/lager.  Not this time.

It is however very humid here, and while the temperature gets low, the sun is shinning – which is a rarity for England  and the humidity makes everything feel a little intense.

My bank account lets me withdraw $500 a day, but when converted to pounds, its less than $280.  So, I'm going to be visiting the ATM on a near daily basis, and taking care of business on cards as much as possible.  Fortunately, my first day I only spent about £100 of the £260 I withdrew.  Much of which involved getting an underground pass, and quite a few drinks this evening.

I managed to meet a bunch of fellow travelers at the Hostel and had a night out with a large group of them.  All I can say about the bars in Europe is that they are predominately Euro Trash Clubs with lots of "House Music" and plenty of 18 year olds kids.  The drinking age is 18 in most of Europe, and it's a little strange at 28 to be drinking with the kiddies.  Not that there's anything wrong with it, but they have a way of being so embarrassing to watch.  I think the only way I made it through that period of life myself was through binge drinking. 

Enough for now, there's really loud yelling going on in the street, and it's 3:18 AM.  Either something awesome is happening, or I'm just not use to being in a city of 7 million people.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Preparing for Europe

Preparations have begun for my two month stint in Europe.  I will be traveling with only the clothes on my back and a fanny pack.  I'm coining this type of travel as Fanny Trekking.  I've traveled like this before during a visit to the southern U.S.  There wasn't a single problem that wasn't easily overcome, and the advantages outweighed the disadvantages 10 to 1.  Why even bother with extra pants, extra shirts, extra socks.  I rarely change my clothes; once a week or less anyway.  When things get too funky you can easily purchase a new pair of cheap cotton socks, (I know many backpack travelers who do this).  And unless your planning on attending a wedding, a banquet, an opera, or a royal wedding, you can get by without dress clothes.

The main essentials include a phone/camera/WIFI device (plus charger), a tooth brush, and some books – although my new Galaxy Tab will act as my e-reader.  You need space to store tickets, passport, and any postcards you might pick-up on your way to the Post Office.  A pen is good, and a small pair of cotton gloves.  Women often require some additional feminine products, but I'm going to ignore that for the sake of this blog.  You need a place to store some cigarettes and a lighter, a flask, and while in Europe hopefully some snuff.  What else does one need, and can't all these things fit in a fanny pack?

I'll be updating regularly while on the train, and my itinerary is extremely loose, consisting of a clockwise circle of Europe starting in London.